Tinned sardines with roasted fennel, pinenut and lemon ricotta, sultana puree and anchovy butter toast

I had to summon up all my energy to vote. Every last scrap of effort in the face of crippling apathy. It wasn’t so much voter fatigue. No, it was more like bullshit exhaustion. Lies feddupance. Deliberate and cynical deceit lethargy.

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Can we trust anybody who is willing to put themselves up as a politician? I even thought about voting Green. But environmental concern is just another plastic badge of societal acceptability. I mean we bleat about saving the planet, but it doesn’t stop us buying new diesel cars or our favourite snacks wrapped in eighteen layers of protective packaging. I’d rather see the world destroyed than my Pringles broken! And I suspect we’re only veering towards renewable energy because the dirty stuff’s actually going to run out rather than any stand on principle.

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I intend to protest against this hypocrisy by lobbing disposable coffee cups everywhere and using foil to cook everything before scrunching it up and scattering the stuff in areas of natural beauty. To shine like sparkly little non-biodegradable tin stars in a lush green landscape.

Ok I’ve tangented – my point is I vote for food. For lip-smacking, happy-making food. Food that’s reliable, humble, always there for you like tinned sardines. Cheap, easy, good-for-you.

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This dish is inspired by pasta con le sarde. It’s classic Sicilian meets store cupboard. It’s simple to prepare, rich with oily fish and ricotta, sweet and sour with sultanas, tart with lemon, fresh and fragrant with fennel, crunchy and salty with anchovy toast.

Ingredients: tinned sardines, fennel, sultanas, ricotta, lemon, pinenuts, anchovies, butter, bread.

Time to get your (fox-fur) coat Mrs May.

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